Can fencing whites go in the dryer? And how do I get grease out and stop them going stiff?
Air drying is what manufacturers recommend, but an occasional short tumble on no heat or the lowest setting, checked often, will not ruin a jacket the night before a tournament. Heat damage is cumulative: high heat shrinks the fabric and breaks down the protective material over time, so do not make the dryer a habit, and never put a lamé in one. To speed up hang drying, fasten every zip and Velcro tab before washing, use a good spin, roll the wet jacket in a dry towel and press the water out, then hang it in front of a fan. Most whites dry in a few hours that way.
The grey and black smears are usually equipment grease and grime from blades, guards and the strip. Treat them before washing: work a little clear dish soap into the stain with your fingers or a soft brush, let it sit a few minutes, then wash as normal. Colored dish soap can tint white fabric, so rinse it out promptly if that is all you have. A citrus degreaser works on stubborn marks as a spot treatment, rinsed out well. Keep chlorine bleach away from your whites entirely, since makers warn it damages the fabric and its protective qualities, and treat whiteners and oxygen stain removers as an occasional spot tool at most.
Cardboard-stiff whites are almost always residue, not age: dried sweat salts, detergent that never rinsed out, hard water minerals, or a no-spin wash that lets soapy water dry into the fibers. Use a measured dose of mild detergent in cold water, add an extra rinse, allow a gentle spin, and try a splash of white vinegar in the rinse if your water is hard. Skip fabric softener. How much it really affects protection gets argued about, but it coats the fibers, clogs wicking linings and gums up Velcro, and manufacturers say not to use it, which settles it for safety gear. Smell comes from gear left damp in the bag.
Masks do not go in the washing machine, but the liner and padding can be cleaned. A removable liner can be hand washed in warm soapy water; rough machine cycles break down the foam. For fixed padding, scrub the inside in a tub or shower with mild detergent, then rinse far more than seems necessary, because leftover soap against your face is a classic cause of breakouts. Blot with towels and air dry for a day or two somewhere with airflow, not direct heat. Dry it completely, since damp padding smells and damp mesh rusts. Be gentle with foil and sabre conductive bibs, and no bleach on any mask.